Lessons learned.
Transitions, tribulations, evaluations, and reflections. .
I prescribe to the school of thought that most humans are of decent character, no matter what we are told. However, we do have a slight tendency to shy away from a bit of critical self-analysis from time to time, and our ability to spend time mulling over the problem often outways our potential to discover the solution, “I myself” am guilty of this primary flaw but, I am getting better at the practice of reflection and it seems to be working.
I am currently in the process of moving into a new cupping space which, you would think would be a relatively easy task. Well, I am going to use this article to reflect on the transition and hopefully shed some light on why this just isn’t the case.
Up until this point, I have had the pleasure of analysing coffee from the same spot for 10+ years, this has provided me with a level of professional comfort that I have come to realise has had a profound effect on the way that I perceive coffee. The relative comfort of my little box, full of everything a coffee professional needs to perform at a high standard, is something one should never take for granted but, as with all things we become accustomed to, we sometimes miss the obvious opportunities to peer outside once in a while…
Developing keen, and critical sensory abilities is an empirical hardship that takes a large amount of resolve and dedication to achieve and as I’ve become more experienced, I have found that reflecting on my own sensory shortcomings has helped me to better understand what is needed to progress in this extremely subjective field. So, armed with a little TED LINGLE and with CARL ROGERS ringing in my ears I will go over what has been an extremely useful couple of months.
Most of my days are spent with a spoon in my hand, slurping away at a liquid that derives from a seed. This seed needs to be roasted, ground, and then extracted, following standardised criteria and under a specified protocol, in order to assess the intrinsic qualities that have developed through a complex range of chemical reactions.
This seed can be elegant and delicate and it can also be harsh and rough, the idea is to remove as many variables as possible in order to evaluate objectively, apply a score and in most cases, provide concise and reliable feedback to the sender.
So, when I received a set of Pre-shipment samples a few weeks ago that I graded particularly low, I automatically defaulted and started looking for the problems.
Glossary of potential problems:
Environment: Free from odours, adequate ventillation, comfortable temperature, neutral colours and no distractions.
Grinder: Using a cupping grinder, Grind particle size should be slightly coarser than typically used for paper filter drip brewing, with 70% to 75% of the particles passing through a U.S. Standard size 20 mesh sieve. At least 5 cups from each sample should be prepared.
Lighting: Light must be to a level high enough and to the appropriate hue to grade coffee correctly, cup coffee, and complete forms without any strain. However, until the luminosity level to achieve this objective is determined, the former specification of 1200 lux will remain as voluntary.
Roasting: The sample should be roasted within 24 hours of cupping
and allowed to rest for at least 8 hours. The roast level for cupping shall be measured between 30 minutes and 4 hours after roasting using coffee ground to the SCA Standard Grind for Cupping and be measured on coffee at room temperature. The coffee shall meet the following measurements with a tolerance of ± 1.0 units.
Agtron “Gourmet”: 63.0
Agtron “Commercial”: 48.0
Colortrack: 62.0
Probat Colorette 3b: 96.0
Water: Water used for cupping should be clean and odor free, but not distilled or softened. Ideal Total Dissolve Solids are 125-175 ppm, but should notbe less than 100 ppm or more than 250 ppm. The water should be freshly drawn and brought to approximately 200ºF (93ºC) at the time it is poured onto the ground coffee. *Temperature needs to be adjusted to elevation.
© 2003 Specialty Coffee Association
The glossary above maps out the fundamental principles that need to be in place in order to perform a valid cupping evaluation as set out by the SPECIALTY COFFEE ASSOCIATION and as you may have guessed, I have spent a focused amount of time and energy over the last few months getting these in order.
I purchased the same sample roaster, the same grinder, and the same cupping bowls I used in the old lab, I concocted a blend of minerals using LOTUS water drops ( I will soon have a filtration system fitted) to reach the recommended PPM as specified above. I programmed the roaster with the identical profile I have used for hundreds if not thousands of evaluations to reach the recommended Agtron colour, and I left the samples to rest for the desired amount of time, I then shut the door and went to work.
The cupping.
Before we get into the cupping I have a few caveats to detail:
I was aware of the coffees Origin.
I have cupped and graded multiple samples from this importer.
I knew the coffee had been processed for the first time at the sender’s new state - of - art processing facility.
I feel that this is necessary information to share, as a true grading exercise should be performed 100% blind, and although this wasn’t a formal grading evaluation, knowing as little as possible about the samples before I cup is the only way, in my opinion, to provide credible feedback that will lead to any kind of potential progress. An informed cupper does not make for a valid evaluation and this is one of those rare occasions where knowing very little about the subject matter is beneficial. The samples were Pre-shipment samples, and my job was to evaluate and feedback on their safe travel and to also provide a report on quality in order for the coffees to be priced accordingly based on grade. So, still an important exercise.
Evaluation Procedure Samples should first be visually inspected for roast color. This is marked on the sheet and may be used as a reference during the rating of specific flavor attributes. The sequence of rating each attribute is based on the flavor perception changes caused by decreasing temperature of the coffee as it cools:
Step #1 – Fragrance/Aroma
Within 15 minutes after samples have been ground, the dry fragrance of the samples should be evaluated by lifting the lid and sniffing the dry grounds.
After infusing with water, the crust is left unbroken for at least 3 minutes but not more than 5 minutes. Breaking of the crust is done by stirring 3 times, then allowing the foam to run down the back of the spoon while gently sniffing. The Fragrance/Aroma score is then marked on the basis of dry and wet evaluation.
Step #2 – Flavor, Aftertaste, Acidity, Body, and Balance
When the sample has cooled to 160º F (71º C), in about 8-10 minutes from infusion, evaluation of the liquor should begin. The liquor is aspirated into the mouth in such a way as to cover as much area as possible, especially the tongue and upper palate.Because the retro nasal vapors are at their maximum intensity at these elevated temperatures, Flavor and Aftertaste are rated at this point.
As the coffee continues to cool (160º F - 140º F), the Acidity, Body and Balance are rated next. Balance is the cupper's assessment of how well the Flavor, Aftertaste, Acidity, and Body fit together in a synergistic combination.
As the coffee continues to cool (160º F - 140º F), the Acidity, Body and Balance are rated next. Balance is the cupper's assessment of how well the Flavor, Aftertaste, Acidity, and Body fit together in a synergistic combination.
Step #3 – Sweetness, Uniformity, and Cleanliness
As the brew approaches room temperature (below 100º F) Sweetness, Uniformity, and Clean Cup are evaluated. For these attributes, the cupper makes a judgment on each individual cup, awarding 2 points per cup per attribute (10 points maximum score).
Evaluation of the liquor should cease when the sample reaches 70º F (21º C) and the Overall score is determined by the cupper and given to the sample as "Cupper's Points" based on ALL of the combined attributes.
Step #4 - Scoring
After evaluating the samples, all the scores are added as describe in the "Scoring" section below and the Final Score is written in the upper right hand box.
Final Scoring
The Final Score is calculated by first summing the individual scores given for each of the primary attributes in the box marked "Total Score." Defects are then subtracted from the "Total Score" to arrive at a "Final Score." The following Scoring Key has proven to be a meaningful way to describe the range of coffee quality for the Final Score.
Total Score Quality Classification
90-100 - Outstanding - Specialty
85-99.99 - Excellent - Specialty
80-84.99 - Very Good - Specialty
< 80.0 - Below Specialty Quality - Not Specialty
© 2003 Specialty Coffee Association
The cupping went well, I felt relaxed and the environment was comfortable if not a little cold. The flow of the session was swift and had purpose and the lighting felt natural. I was in the zone, I felt healthy and as I was inputting my last piece of feedback I looked around the room and felt a sense of relief. Putting in the work to get the space up to standard had paid off. However, I couldn’t help but notice that the scores were somewhat low. All of the samples had scored 80+ points making them of speciality grade, they were clean and solid but they just lacked clarity and seemed somewhat muted. If I am being totally honest, I was slightly disappointed with the results and this is where it gets interesting.
I logged the samples, but, instead of providing feedback straight away, I allowed the little seed of doubt to germinate in my subjective brain. This is what surprised me the most on reflection. As I pored over the results I started to go through the multiple things that could have potentially caused the coffee to lack intensity. Was it the water? was it the new grinder? I also had in the back of my mind that this coffee had been processed with incredible care and attention (the problem of knowing too much). How did this coffee not score higher?
I decided to cup again. I gave the samples another day of rest and performed a second evaluation. The evaluation was carried out exactly the same as the previous day and the flow was just as swift but, the coffee was still lacking and the grades given were identical. I decided to trust my experience and sent the feedback.
Over the course of the next few weeks, I decided to do some blind sampling, this cupping evaluation had bugged me, and I needed to know if something was wrong with the new setup. I cupped multiple coffees from multiple Origins and cross-referenced these with the scores that had been applied by other licensed graders. I set up a blind tasting with a close friend and qualified grader and we compared results. I cupped a hell of a lot and although the results from these cuppings were within tolerance and I felt calibrated and that I had done my due diligence, I still felt bugged by that first evaluation. I do still feel that my limited experience of critical evaluation outside of my old cupping lab has had a significant impact on my perception, even though I have cupped in hundreds of weird and wonderful places, just not under the strictest of protocols and as I have settled into the new space and become more comfortable with my surroundings I have started to make subtle changes to my workflow and this experience has provided me with plenty of lessons learned. All in all, this has been an important exercise that has reinforced my feelings about the need for rigorous standardisation that I think needs constant evaluation in our industry.
Conclusion.
On reflection, I feel there are some valid points to take away from this. Just writing this piece has been an incredibly useful exercise in allowing me to put my thoughts in order and It has confirmed to me how crucial it is that standards are followed in order to create validity in our evaluations.
Should calibration be a yearly undertaking? I am starting to think it should be.
Do I think that these standardised methods are performed by all of the industry? I sure hope so.
Will I keep up my reflective practice to critique my own validity? I certainly will.
Do I need to cup more? I certainly do.
Is it important? Damn, right it is…
Cheers
Burts.
Ok David. Firstly, an extraordinarily and necessarily detailed read. Brilliant work. Secondly, I come at this as an enthusiastic amateur, a lover of detail/general fascination about coffee and an admirer of people frankly in any industry, that are as demonstrably professional as you are, about their work and the end impact on the 'user'.
It is truly remarkable, the sheer volume of energy and skill that goes into both the growing of and processing at all levels, of our favourite brew. It's part of the reason I continually bore...er, remind folks, why they should treasure the ability to purchase outstanding coffee at such reasonable prices and why they owe it to themselves, to seek out the best quality they can comfortably afford, on a liquid they consume every day.
I'm not qualified to question any of the facts in your article, but I really do admire the reflective way you approach your job and endeavour to remove/restrict/shape the many and varied issues that impact your ability to fulfill the critical task of grading coffee. I am left in no doubt, how important these processes are. After all, the finished product, is a reflection of your abilities and professional evaluation and compromise is not an option.
This morning, I was in a cafe whose beans are given what I call 'the bejesus roast'...ie. within an inch of their very lives, without actually going on fire! I used to drink that stuff. However, I got 'informed' and am pleased that I did, because when I read articles like this, I know my choices have improved beyond measure and more importantly, I know WHY! Indeed, even the aspect of roasted bean colour, is part of your rigorous process, so we mere mortals can at least assess that when we choose to drink or not to drink!...just a herbal tea, then... 🤨🙄😄
In conclusion, anyone who reads your posts, should feel comfortable that they are purchasing from an organization that cares and goes to extraordinary lengths, to fulfill their part of the bargain...providing top quality merchandise, affording the brewer at work or home, to produce delicious and tasty drinks. That's something as a coffee lover, I will never underestimate...